- Johanna Stålnacke
- From: Chamonix, France
- Ambassador since: 2016
- Outdoor activities: Ski Touring, Skiing, Mountain Biking
Achievements:
- First ski descent of the Black Friar Peaks North couloir (5.2) in the Adamants, BC, Canada
- First ski descent of Aiguille Tricot SW face (5.3), Chamonix, France
- First ski descent of the Lambda couloir (5.2), Troms, Norway
- 4th Swedish woman to qualify as an IFMGA/UIAGM/IVBV international Mountain Guide
- Numerous extreme ski descents in the 5th difficulty grade in the Alps such as:
- The North face of Aiguille du Midi, Eugster (5.4)
- Aiguille Verte from the summit (5.3)
- Gervasutti of Mont Blanc du Tacul (5.3)
- South face of Aiguille Rochefort (5.3)
- SW face of Les Droites (5.3)
- Numerous bigwall climbs in the US such as
- The Nose on El Capitain in Yosemite, US
- The Astroman, Yosemite, US
- The Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks, US
- Scenic cruise, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, US
- Nordic champion in climbing bouldering
- Guiding on Svalbard, in the Alps, Norway, Sweden.
Johanna Stålnacke is based in the alpine capital of Chamonix, she has forged a career that seamlessly blends extreme skiing, elite alpinism, and professional guiding. As the fourth Swedish woman ever to qualify as an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide, Johanna has spent over a decade pushing the limits of what is possible on steep, technical terrain.
Where did you grow up?
Kiruna Sweden.
Activity
Freeskiing, Ski mountaineering, Climbing, Alpinism, mountainbiking.
What year did you join the Norrøna family?
2016.
What do you actively do to cut back on your carbon footprint?
I work as an IFMGA mountain guide and my clients come from all over the world, some has very influencial positions in our society. Regardless of who I get to share the mountains with, find it important to share values about our nature, how to preserve and pay attention to the details of our passage. My clients can see with their own eyes how the glaciers are melting, how the mountains are changing due to the permafrost that melts out, the rock falls and they can experience an alpine environment that doesn’t look anything like it used to a few decades ago. I show them where the glacier used to reach, they can see the moraine and hear the constant rock falls. I think this is an awakening for many. I don’t believe in lecturing or tell people what to do, I rather try to inspire people to want to make a change by raising awareness. By paying attention myself and to create a space for open conversations. It all starts with the thought, then comes the action. And if the action is driven by personal motivation, conviction and a will to contribute to cutting back to carbon footprints, then I think the changes can be sustainable and long lasting. Because we need to not only do it once, but to implement a shift in how we view the world and our interactions with nature. When people join me in the mountains, it is the best way to inspire to such a change and connect with the nature on a personal level, far away from screens and offices. Out there where you actually feel the changes on your skin. That leaves lasting impressions.
Was there someone or some event that inspired you to get involved in your sport/activity?
My dear friend & skier Andreas Fransson was a great inspiration to me. He inspired me to become a strong skier and alpinist, to believe in my capabilities and to also have the courage to go through the IFMGA guide program.
What advice would you give your 10-year-old self?
Don’t be afraid of your dreams, embrace them because they are all possible - and never let other people tell you what you can’t do.
If you could have dinner with 4 people (living or deceased) who would they be and why?
Dalai Lama – a conversation with this man could be life changing
Lionel Messi – the best football player, does he like house music?
Steve Jobs – for the perspectives I think that he would have on many areas of life.
Michelle Obama – let’s talk about courage.
What is/are your hidden talent(s)?
Secret talents must be experienced in the moment.
If you could choose a superpower, what would it be and why?
Flying, so that I wouldn’t be afraid of falling.
Describe yourself in 3 words.
Curious, Intuitive, Strong
What is a skill that everyone should master and why?
Breathing. It’s so simple but people don’t always use it as the tool it actually is. Breathing calms down our senses and gives us space to distance ourselves from immediate emotions and reactions. Calming down enables the brain to function in any situation: In the mountains when fear or emotions can become overwhelming, or when we truly need to perform on our best, because of safety or maybe because it is a contest… breathing helps us to mobilize all our power and allows us to connect with a mindset, that will help us to focus. It’s the key that everyone has without necessarily knowing how to use.
Johanna Stålnacke in action
