A 5 day trek on Reunion Island

Day One - Mafate

This adventure begins at the Col des Boeufs at the border between the Cirque de Salazie and the Cirque of Mafate. After leaving the road, we dive into a world apart. Behind us is dense vegetation and in front more dust and rocks. Mafate is wilder than the other valleys, surrounded by cliffs and with hiking paths as only access. Gradually, we disappear into the island. First stop, the Ilet of La Nouvelle, then for the night, Marla – the highest peak of Mafate!

Ilet is the name given to small villages in the mountains. Sometimes there are just a few cabins, or dozens of small houses. The inhabitants live there at the rhythm of helicopter supplies. Our route meanders through the trees for several kilometers before hearing some music in the distance. Hikers and locals are all gathered on the terrace of the only bar around. A beer, a snack, a local dish… Everyone finds what they need to rest or to refuel!

After touring the village and buying some fruits for future snack, it's time to hit the trails again. A beautiful descent begins to the Rivière des Galets and its impressive waterfall cut into the rock. Once you get there, the torrent accelerates and water falls into a giant crack under your feet.

It's there at the edge of the water that we set up a picnic! Cradled by the river, time passes quickly but with the remaining kilometers, we unfortunately have to leave. The way to Marla's cottage began with an easy path along the river, before climbing more and more. But quickly, we see the first houses and the terrace of another local bar where a few beers were welcome before taking a hot shower and enjoying a good meal.

In the heart of Mafate for the evening, everything is calm. Night falls early and the coolness sets in. After all, we are in the mountains. Finally, everyone goes to bed early to hit the trails the next day.

Day Two - Mafate to Cilaos

Rather than waiting for breakfast at 7am, we got up before 6am to explore the surroundings. There are so many trails that it would be a shame not to take advantage of them. So, here we go again for a one-hour morning trail run in the heart of Mafate. The first rays of the sun touch the summits and it’s grandiose. The path gradually descends in laces and dives into the trees before offering nice views over the valley. At the bend of a river, we take a small bridge which finally brought us back to the village. Just in time for breakfast!

A tea, some sandwiches, fruits and here we go again! This time, we are heading to Cilaos in the neighboring valley. It started with a long climb to the Col du Taïbit. Once at the top, you can see the finish line in the distance, but don’t be fooled, there are still many kilometers to go.

On a path sometimes completely in the forest, other times on a balcony over the river, the hours followed one another with very beautiful panoramas on the Piton des Neiges which dominates the surrounding. Then, we went down to the Bras Rouge waterfall, where we came across canyoning clubs. The end was 3 kilometers away, but that's without counting on the remaining elevation. After a good hour of walking, the path led us directly into town. The contrast is striking compared to Mafate: shops, restaurants, markets… A beautiful atmosphere and always magnificent mountains that surround us practically at 360°.

The resting time is simple: A good meal to taste the finest dishes of the island, a few postcards for friends and family, a good night's sleep in a new cottage, because tomorrow is the ascent of Piton des Neiges, a 3070m summit ahead of us!

Day Three - Cilaos to Piton des Neiges

7am. The alarm rings and everyone gets ready. The sun was already high in the sky and the day might be quite hot. After a breakfast with good homemade jams, we left the Cialos with full stomachs and full backpacks. There is not much distance but a heavy climb. 8 short kilometers separate us from the refuge of La Caverne Dufour, but 1200m of ascent awaits. Regarding the weight of our bags, we should arrive at noon.

The climb is done in the shade, under thick vegetation. Which is not so bad with our gear and the heat. The higher we went, the steeper the path became, but nothing stopped us and finally we caught sight of the final pass between the trees.

We reach La Caverne Dufour at 2400m altitude one hour earlier than expected. The refuge was not yet open so we sat on the terrace contemplating a landscape that never ceased to surprise us.

Facing us 3km away, is the highest peak in the Indian Ocean: the Piton des Neiges (3070m). After a snack and a short talk with the refuge team, I decided to leave my backpack there and run to the top while the sky was still clear.

After 45 minutes of climbing in the pebbles and dust, here I am at the very top! Pure happiness with no one around. It is quieter because most hikers stop at the refuge and wait until the next morning to climb to the summit at sunrise (something I will also do now that I know the way up).

When you have a summit just for yourself, you enjoy it 300%! So I walk for long minutes on the ridges, inspecting the slightest traces, the neighboring valleys, and taking a whole bunch of photographs. On the descent, I met some brave hikers who, like me, wanted to savor this beautiful cloudless afternoon. Once at the refuge, small groups of people formed, we met familiar faces seen along the paths, we bought a round of drinks and everyone quietly waited for mealtime before going to bed for very early wake up call.

Day Four - PIton des Neiges to Plaine des Cafres

Whereas the alarm clock was set for 4am, our roommates dragged us out of bed at 3am. Everybody seemed excited in the refuge and the tents around it! I don't know if it's the climb that was stressing them out, but with a sunrise scheduled for 5.45am and a good hour's walk, we have time to kill.

Despite taking our time, it did not prevent us from arriving way too early at the top. The sky was clear but the wind was blowing very hard. Everyone at the top tried to take shelter behind rocks. I spotted a small cave a little further the day before, so we decided to go there with my girlfriend to finally wait more than half an hour.

After long minutes in the dark, the show began. The sun was breaking through a sea of clouds over the ocean. The whole island revealed itself and the sky was on fire! It was definitely worth waking up to and the photos only show a tiny bit of what we experienced that morning.

As the wind continued to blow quite strongly, we trot back to the refuge to take a warm breakfast. The timing was perfect, we were there at 7am and an hour later on our way to the south of the island. Straight (or almost) to the Plaine des Cafres, at the bottom of the Fournaise volcano!

First on rough and arid terrain, then gradually into greener places, we had a long walk that day. A few ladders in the forest allowed us to switch to the other side of the valley before discovering a bucolic setting where herds of cows graze at the foot of ancient volcanoes. It feels like the countryside but with a tropical twist.

The paths widen and quickly reach a village and a new lodge for the night. The evening schedule stayed the same as usual: rum tasting, a hearty meal, a hot shower and a well-deserved sleep.

Day Five - Piton de la Fournaise Volcano

The initial plan for this trip was to end it at the top of the volcano, but it erupted a few weeks before our trek. Therefore, access to the crater and the summit was prohibited. So we had to find a new route to approach it and finish this trek in style.

To save time from the Plaine des Cafres, a bus took us to the start of a hike near the caldera. From this starting point, we had the chance to cross a succession of very different landscapes. First the green pastures at the top of the valley, then the cliffs ramparts overlooking it. It is finally an almost magical journey that led us to the Plaine des Sables (The Plain of Sands), where it felt like being on planet Mars.

It is difficult to explain everything in the smallest detail, because you have to experience it to feel it. As we couldn't get to the Piton de la Fournaise with its still hot lava flows, we decided to hike the other old volcanoes that have been dormant for thousands of years. They are not the main attraction and less frequented, but offer magnificent views on the panorama.

After having picnicked in a science fiction movie landscape, we come back to cross the desert-like plain of sands, before descending 2000m of altitude to our final destination: the Langevin waterfall at Grand Galet.

First with a steep start on the mountainside, then a slidy trail under thick vegetation, this hike was perfect to end this beautiful adventure. And what a finale to enjoy a very refreshing swim in front of a huge waterfall.

Reunion Island is truly a paradise for all nature and mountain lovers. This little trek reveals only a tiny part of it. If I had more time, I would have spent months there!