Friluftsliv Capital: Chamomix

YOU COULD SAY that Chamonix is the Euro Disney for outdoor enthusiasts.

A carnival.

A circus.

Or you could say that Chamonix is a mix of Whistler, Cortina d'Ampezzo, and the small village of Ørsta in Norway.

You could also say that Chamonix is like someone decided to host the world's largest outdoor conference – gathering thousands of participants in climbing, trail running, mountain biking, paragliding, steep skiing, hiking, and glacier tours – all in one place.

With the remarkable detail that the conference never ends.

It seemingly lasts for eternity.

THIS TIME we arrive in Chamonix in July. The first thing we encounter is a man playing the guitar in a side street – to raise funds for a new climbing rope.

Shortly after, we meet a Scandinavian waitress at a café. She tells us that she lives in a 20-square-meter room, pays too much for it, electricity isn't included, no washing machine, and her contract is about to expire.

Still, she smiles.

Because she is living the dream.

She is in Chamonix.

There's nowhere else she'd rather be.

WE ARE A WHOLE FAMILY on this journey. We came here – once again – to go hiking, maybe do a bit of trail running, perhaps climb an easy via ferrata. And to enjoy the view.

Ask anyone who has been to Chamonix what remains as the strongest impression, and they will say "the view."

The view of Aiguille du Midi, the spire reaching 3842 meters towards the sky, which you – of all things – can visit via a cable car.

The view of Mont Blanc – one of the most famous mountains on the entire planet.

The view of Le Brévent, La Flégère, Aiguille du Dru.

The view into your own Chamonix holiday.

Which will probably be a holiday you will never forget.¨’

1. Ea Eidslott at the top of the Index lift in Chamonix. 2. The famous snow ridge descending from Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix – almost 4000 meters above sea level. 3. Ea Eidslott explores the fantastic trail running between Tre la Champ and Lac Blanc in Chamonix.

THE HISTORY BOOKS TELL US that the first tourists arrived in Chamonix in June 1741. The English aristocrats Pocock and Windham strolled up the valley and felt like they had reached heaven.

Back in England, they spread the rumor about the most beautiful valley in the Alps. And about the vast, unclimbable mountain Mont Blanc.

It would take 45 years before someone managed to reach the summit. On 8 August 1786, the two French companions Balmat and Paccard were the first to stand on Europe's roof.

It marked a new era for tourism in Chamonix. Today, nearly 1.5 million tourists visit Chamonix each year.

The only quiet months in today's Chamonix are November and December. Otherwise, it's mostly bustling.

All the time.

IF THOSE OF US WHO ONLY KNOW Chamonix from six or seven enthusiastic visits over the past 25 years were to write a short guidebook with our personal favorites, it might include the following simple tips:

1. Take the easy and short hike "Grand Balcon Sud" between Brévent and Flégère – as one of the first things you do – just to get an overview, and to be surprised by how much you can experience – and see! – on such a short hike.

2. Hike or run the spectacular trail from Tre la Champ via Lac Blanc and further down to Flégère – if you want to go a bit further and create a lifelong memory.

3. Go the opposite way from Tre la Champ – all the way up to the brilliant summit of Croix de Fer, with views in every direction. The trail is a bit steep and exposed towards the end but suitable for anyone without too much fear of heights.

4. Hike up to the fantastic mountain hut Albert Premier Refuge at 2702 meters – to stay overnight or just to have a huge French lunch.

5. Summit Mont Joly at 2525 meters in Chamonix's neighboring valley Les Contamines – and enjoy a hike – or run – on a spectacular grass ridge unlike any other, with views that simply take your breath away.

6. Climb the relatively easy but amazing Via Ferrata des Evettes just above the top station of the Flégère Gondola.

7. Take the magical forest path straight from Chamonix center to the mid-station on the Aiguille du Midi gondola – Plan du l'Aiguille – and have a wonderful meal before taking the gondola back down. It's rare to be able to climb 1200 vertical meters straight up like this – in an endless number of switchbacks.

8. Try tandem paragliding from Brévent – if you dare! – and pretend to be a bird over Chamonix.

9. Explore even more of the easy hiking options in the neighboring valleys Les Contamines or Megève – or take a trip through the Mont Blanc Tunnel and discover the trails and mountain excursions around the Italian alpine village Courmayeur.

10. Hire a mountain guide and join a slightly more challenging adventure. For example, the climbing over the world-famous Cosmique Ridge – starting and ending at Aiguille du Midi, almost 4000 meters above sea level.

WITH THAT, we naturally hand over the word to none other than Norrøna ambassador and UIAGM mountain guide Wolfgang Huber – who lives in Chamonix with his family. He has guided us over the Cosmique Ridge – and has good suggestions on how Chamonix can be experienced for those who want to engage in more normal and easily accessible outdoor activities:

“Chamonix really has a lot to offer in summer,” says Wolfgang.

“Mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing, via ferratas, alpine climbing, bouldering, and a lot of sport climbing suitable for beginners. My advice is: choose an adventure you like – suitable for your level – and do not forget to sit down along the way and enjoy the beauty of your surroundings. Choosing the right adventure for your skill level can often be hard. A mountain guide, or a bike guide, will make a big difference to your day.”

“What's your top three easy hiking tours in Chamonix?”

“Some walking on the glacier, either setting foot onto the Mer du Glace or just an easy walk from Point Hellbronner on the Glacier du Geant. Or maybe even walking all the way from Aiguille du Midi to Point Hellbronner.

1. The pirate flag flies on the rooftop of Refuge du Lac Blanc at 2353 meters in Chamonix. 2. Ea Eidslott crosses the impressive bridge just below the Bionnassay glacier on the hike between Chamonix and Les Contamines. 3. Norrøna ambassador and experienced mountain guide Wolfgang Huber gives you his best advice and tips for easier hikes in Chamonix in this article. Of course, he can also guide you up the highest mountains.

“What's the best time to visit Chamonix if you would like to go hiking?”

“In September – just before all the lifts close. Or in June – at the start of summer, just after all the lifts open.”

“Do you have any other advice when it comes to more easy activities with family and kids in Chamonix?”

“Depending on the age of the kids, we have nice bouldering on Col du Montets, where there is also a small creek where the kids like to play. There are also many nice bike trails suitable for kids on the Chamonix valley floor. From 8 years and onwards, I would also recommend doing a via ferrata climb with kids and visiting the Mer du Glace.

In many places, you will also find a lot of blueberries in the mountains. Blueberry picking with young kids is a great day out!

FINALLY, I allow myself to come up with a theory: you will start to enjoy Chamonix as quickly as it takes to eat two scoops of vanilla and chocolate ice cream – on the pedestrian street Rue du Docteur Paccard.

You will fall in love with Chamonix as quickly as it takes to strip off the skins from a pair of backcountry skis.

You will be eternally marked by Chamonix as quickly as a step-in crampon attaches to your mountain boots.